well first let me tell you that bathrooms in Poland are WIERD! First of all you have to pay to use almost any bathroom at a public place - the train station, tourist attractions, the mall, etc. It's usually 1 or 2 zloty and the first time I didn't understand. I was in the train station waiting for my train when I went and I walked in and there are two old ladies in the men's bathroom. They put out their hand and the only word I understood was zloty (the Polish currency). We then started talking and they told me that I had to pay them to use the bathroom. It was so wierd cause they're just milling around the bathroom while I'm in there - odd place.
Polish people are very cognizant of homeless people or other beggars in Warsaw. The shop people go a long way to "protect" tourists from them. Twice at outdoor kiosk shops and once in an outdoor cafe I was approached by beggars and every time the same thing happened. At the restaurant the waitress put herself physically between me and they guy and then just proceeded to stare the guy down with a look that could kill. He left. At the shops the same thing happened - the male salesmen placed themselves physically between us - but they said some things in Polish that I could tell by body language and voice level were not nice. It seems like they want to "protect" tourists or something from this occurrence. It was a little offputting actually - cause they were all so mean to people who obviously were in need.
I was in a hurry on my last night in Warsaw and wanted a quick bite so I jumped into a McDonald's. I was almost out of Zloty so I just used my card. The bill was 11.02zloty. They have the system where the card is slid through a separate machine and the cashier inputs the amount to charge. He handed me my receipt and turned around to get my food. I looked at the receipt and realized he only charged me 1.02zloty forgetting to type in the extra one. I pointed it out to him to give him a chance to correct it, but he looked at it and said, "Oh well it's not my fault." I thought to myself how is it not your fault? You typed in the number wrong stupid! So I thought, oh well, it's your boss that will yell at you and not me! I tried!
Beware taxis in Warsaw, especially from the airport. The travel book I had warned me about it. It should have only cost about 30zloty from the airport to the train station according to my book - but it warned they will try to charge you more. One trick is they hit a button on the meter that switches to "night mode" and charges extra. Tariff 1 is daytime and Tariff 2 is nighttime. It recommended I get a taxi from the taxi stand in the airport just outside baggage claim. I tried - but they told me just go outside and catch a taxi, it should cost about 50 zloty! I realized they were probably aware of the fact that I was going to get overcharged and just didn't care! So I got a taxi and sure enough he changed the meter to Tariff 2, so I cleared my throat to get his attention and pointed at it - he immediately changed it back. My taxi ride was 29zloty. Thank you Lonely Planet Travel Guides!
Sunday, April 24, 2011
Thursday, April 21, 2011
Warsaw
So Warsaw - i will definitely miss you. We did not have nearly enough time together (one day). I wanted to see a lot in my spring break so i split if up the best I could. I'm glad I did it because I get to see so much, but I wish I had another 2 days in Greece and I wish I would have had another week in Poland.
First I'll dispense with the humorous part of my day. After leaving the cemetery (explained below) I was on the tram when it stopped unexpectedly. I started to see people get off and murmur. It wasn't until I saw them take out their cameras that I wondered what was going on...So I disembarked and there it was! The old man who had driven his car onto the tracks! They are trams, but are built just like train tracks. The ballast rock was low at one point and his car got stuck on the rails. Don't ask me how he got on those tracks. On one side separating the tracks from the road is a 3 foot fence and on the other side is the sidewalk and platform next to a big park. Everyone was saying he must have driven through the park and over the sidewalk! I don't understand! It was pretty funny though. And apparently a sight that not many Warsawians see every day - they were all grabbing their cameras and their phones to take pictures too! One of the rail mechanic trucks showed up pretty quickly and wenched him off the tracks onto a sidewalk in an intersection and left him! Where he drove away!
I am SO surprised to say that I think Poland might be one of my favorite places in all of Europe! I never expected that really. The country is beautiful. I know in my previous blog I talked a lot about how depressing it was to see Auschwitz and see where all the Jews, Poles, Roma, political prisoners and Soviet POW's were killed. Today I started my day at the Warsaw Rising Museum - the museum that commemorates the uprising in Warsaw against the Nazi occupation. And today it was sad yes - but it felt exciting and hopeful and proud.
I've often wondered how I would react to a situation like that. If some aggressor came in one day and took over - told me I wasn't American anymore; told me that I couldn't study certain things in school; told me that I couldn't choose what religion and church to go to; told me what work I was allowed to have; told me when I could leave my house and where I could go. How would I respond? Would I be as brave as the Warsawians (yes that's what they're called - lol)?
College professors -banned from teaching in colleges (college wasn't necessary anymore and was a way for people to organize so it was banned) - started taking their classes underground - teaching in streets and parks and homes. Learning was a way to resist. To the Germans, unlearned people were easier to control. The Warsawians resisted.
They didn't stop there either. They started forging Polish Zloty (the currency) and used it to buy things abroad and in Poland. They Germans wanted to keep the people poor and they controlled the money supply (so they thought) until the "Dark and Silent" among other things started forging the bills. They infiltrated the money into the economy and people were able to spend and live again. They could afford necessities and the economy began to rebound.
They didn't stop there either. They organized. They organized resistance groups and took the weapons from the military and police and whatever personal weapons they had and they fought. They fought and they died together in the Uprising. It was 4 years after occupation and it looked like there was no end in sight. The Allies were too busy fending off Germans from France and Britain to worry about Poland. The Soviets had already pulled out of Poland after Germany attacked. The only fighting back they did was to airlift some weapons to Warsaw, but dropping them from planes without parachutes meant most were damaged.
Girls acted as couriers and delivered messages back and forth, transported and cleaned weapons and were nurses to the injured. Some girls fought too. Children fought. There is a monument here to the "small fighters" to mark all the children who fought and died. 8, 10, 12, 15 year olds took rocks, guns whatever they could use and they fought German Gestapo and the German military.
The Warsawians used the sewer system to move about the city largely undetected. The Germans didn't know the system like the Warsawians did and they exploited that. The Germans fought back hard though. They captured the hospitals (some were operating in churches) and they killed the doctors and nurses and patients too. The blew up all the churches. The church, much like what I learned in Greece, through many occupations served as the point that retained the Polish identity and language and culture. There is a unifying and solidifying force in religion. And the church in Poland was ACTIVE in the uprising. Priests marched out with the fighters, churches operated as hospitals, churches housed the resistance armies, they were a rallying point for the people.
The Germans finally left Warsaw after 5 years and only 15% of the city was still standing. They had all but razed it to the ground. But the people - the people! They never gave up. They didn't go quietly into the dark. They fought. There was a quote in the museum that just gave me chills. It said, "All we wanted was our freedom. Freedom that we owed to no one but ourselves." They realized the West was too pre-occupied and they knew that freedom would need to come from themselves. They fought to give themselves that freedom. The country started to liberate pieces of itself and soon after the Germans were defeated and a complete withdrawal happened.
I just had such goosebumps in the museum. The Jewish Ghetto had their own uprising too. That is commemorated in the city and in the museum. They were already locked away in the Ghetto and so their uprising came earlier and was their own. By the time the Warsaw uprising happened, the Ghetto had been emptied - all of them sent to camps. Their story is much less familiar because so few lived to tell about it. But I visited the Jewish Cemetery in Warsaw and saw just how full it was.
I explored the rest of the city too - the Old Town and the New Town (the old downtowns) and saw so many beautiful monuments and parks and buildings and churches and the old Citadel and walls that protected the city for centuries. It is a really really beautiful city. The public transportation is easy and cheap and oh my - have I told you about how good the food is! Perogis and sausages and potatoes! YUM!!!!
The things I had read weren't quite true. Yes - much of the city was rebuilt to "look old", but unlike I had heard, it doesn't look fake or tacky. There are signs with pictures, or paintings outside most every building to show what it used to look like. And for the most part, they nailed the reconstruction. Its not surprising that they want their city back to the way it was. History and memory to not easily give in to modernity. In a way, you could say this is a modern day extension of the Uprising - first they resisted, now they restored.
Tomorrow I'll give you my reflections on Poland as a whole!
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Memories of Krakow and some Polish trivia!
**This is the second blog today. The previous is about Auschwitz but don’t read it if you’re faint of heart
Krakow has been a WONDERFUL experience. It is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. As I mentioned earlier it is very near the Auschwitz camp and very close to some very old salt mines as well – but the jewel of Poland is really the city of Krakow itself. Much of it largely survived the wars and the architecture is nothing but stunning. There are churches at least every two blocks and they range in age from 900 to 300 years old. They are incredibly ornate and beautiful and wow! If you go – plan on 4 days minimum. I wish I had an extra day there.
The Wawel Castle complex is amazing too. Its oldest parts date back over 1000 years old. It is one of the biggest castle complexes I’ve ever seen – the Royal Castle, the Cathedral, and the other buildings make this an amazingly stunning complex. It was the cities defenses for centuries and for over 5 centuries was the seat of the Polish monarchy. The old downtown is spectacular as well. It is surrounded by the Barbican – the old medieval walls that had moats and kept the city intact for so long.
The people – amazingly nice and helpful. The public transportation – easy, efficient and cheap. The food – well there goes my diet! The hostel was fun too. It was convenient and cheap. And Polish beer – pretty darn good. I was telling my mom on the phone that I had kielbasa for lunch and she asked – “What is that?” “Polish sausage,” I told her, “but in Poland they don’t call it that!” The national sport of Poland in case you were wondering is vodka-drinking. They’re pretty good at it too. There are just as many “Alkohole 24” stores as churches – maybe more!
The flight here wasn’t bad either – out of my over 40 flights in my life – the single softest landing I’ve ever had and the service on the plane was so helpful. I’m on the train back to Warsaw now. I’ve got two nights there before I head to London to see my friends there. I’ve heard Warsaw is nice – but not as genuine as Krakow. So much of it was destroyed in the wars that it was rebuilt to look old – but it isn’t old anymore. This is just one of the constant reminders of the issues Europe faced with war after war after war. Poland has one of the most beautiful, fascinating and sad histories.
I read up on it before coming and if you haven’t – do. Here’s some tidbits for you!
Did you know that for over 35 years Poland was Europe’s largest country?
When the King of Poland married the Queen of Lithuania combined with a couple of wars in the next 5-10 years, the kingdom engulfed what is today over 15 countries!
Did you know that prior to the end of WW1, Poland had not existed on the map for over 100 years?
The European states of Russia, Germany and Austria made secret deals to break up Poland and take the pieces. It took them three tries at partition and nearly 100 years to be successful, but Poland disappeared for 120 years and didn’t re-enter until after territory was re-allocated after the end of WW1.
Did you know Tadeusz Kosciuszko, Poland’s most revered freedom fighter against invaders in the early 1800s learned how to take unorganized farmers and fight against a well-equipped, trained and funded European army and win by being a hero of the American War of Independence first?
For his bravery and dedication in battle, the Continental Congress promoted him to the rank of brigadier general and naturalized him as a citizen of the U.S. Afterwards, he took what he had learned back to Poland and it was largely his efforts that made the partition of Poland mentioned above take so long. The built a memorial for him in Krakow and they built it with the dirt of his many battlefields in both Poland the U.S. Kosciuszko’s Mound as it’s called is a combination of Polish and American soils. Because Poland previously included modern-day Belarus and Lithuania, he is a national hero of those countries as well.
Krakow has been a WONDERFUL experience. It is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. As I mentioned earlier it is very near the Auschwitz camp and very close to some very old salt mines as well – but the jewel of Poland is really the city of Krakow itself. Much of it largely survived the wars and the architecture is nothing but stunning. There are churches at least every two blocks and they range in age from 900 to 300 years old. They are incredibly ornate and beautiful and wow! If you go – plan on 4 days minimum. I wish I had an extra day there.
The Wawel Castle complex is amazing too. Its oldest parts date back over 1000 years old. It is one of the biggest castle complexes I’ve ever seen – the Royal Castle, the Cathedral, and the other buildings make this an amazingly stunning complex. It was the cities defenses for centuries and for over 5 centuries was the seat of the Polish monarchy. The old downtown is spectacular as well. It is surrounded by the Barbican – the old medieval walls that had moats and kept the city intact for so long.
The people – amazingly nice and helpful. The public transportation – easy, efficient and cheap. The food – well there goes my diet! The hostel was fun too. It was convenient and cheap. And Polish beer – pretty darn good. I was telling my mom on the phone that I had kielbasa for lunch and she asked – “What is that?” “Polish sausage,” I told her, “but in Poland they don’t call it that!” The national sport of Poland in case you were wondering is vodka-drinking. They’re pretty good at it too. There are just as many “Alkohole 24” stores as churches – maybe more!
The flight here wasn’t bad either – out of my over 40 flights in my life – the single softest landing I’ve ever had and the service on the plane was so helpful. I’m on the train back to Warsaw now. I’ve got two nights there before I head to London to see my friends there. I’ve heard Warsaw is nice – but not as genuine as Krakow. So much of it was destroyed in the wars that it was rebuilt to look old – but it isn’t old anymore. This is just one of the constant reminders of the issues Europe faced with war after war after war. Poland has one of the most beautiful, fascinating and sad histories.
I read up on it before coming and if you haven’t – do. Here’s some tidbits for you!
Did you know that for over 35 years Poland was Europe’s largest country?
When the King of Poland married the Queen of Lithuania combined with a couple of wars in the next 5-10 years, the kingdom engulfed what is today over 15 countries!
Did you know that prior to the end of WW1, Poland had not existed on the map for over 100 years?
The European states of Russia, Germany and Austria made secret deals to break up Poland and take the pieces. It took them three tries at partition and nearly 100 years to be successful, but Poland disappeared for 120 years and didn’t re-enter until after territory was re-allocated after the end of WW1.
Did you know Tadeusz Kosciuszko, Poland’s most revered freedom fighter against invaders in the early 1800s learned how to take unorganized farmers and fight against a well-equipped, trained and funded European army and win by being a hero of the American War of Independence first?
For his bravery and dedication in battle, the Continental Congress promoted him to the rank of brigadier general and naturalized him as a citizen of the U.S. Afterwards, he took what he had learned back to Poland and it was largely his efforts that made the partition of Poland mentioned above take so long. The built a memorial for him in Krakow and they built it with the dirt of his many battlefields in both Poland the U.S. Kosciuszko’s Mound as it’s called is a combination of Polish and American soils. Because Poland previously included modern-day Belarus and Lithuania, he is a national hero of those countries as well.
Auschwitz-Birkenau Camp
Well I arrived in Krakow at just after midnight on Monday night/Tuesday morning. I then walked to my hostel, got checked in, changed and ready for bed. My next day began with breakfast and a shower at 7am. For anyone who knows me that is extremely early, especially since all my grad school classes are at night, and considering I hadn’t gotten to bed until about 1am after arriving by train. But I took it like a champ – for some reason I persevere for vacationing – just for class or work I’m not interested in doing so – lol.
I got on the bus at 8am to go for my guided tour of the Auschwitz – Birkenau complex. Of the many concentration camps the Germans had during WWII, and the many in Poland alone – none have the notoriety of Auschwitz. But it is often misunderstood. Auschwitz was actually 3 main camps and over 140 sub-camps. The Auschwitz camp (Auschwitz being the German name for the Polish town of Oscwiego) was a small camp that only housed men and only about 20,000 of them. The neighboring Birkenau camp (about half a kilometer away) was the biggie – holding both men and women and over 400,000 of them. This is where the SS exterminated over 1.5 million people in gas chambers and crematoria.
It was one of the hardest things I have ever seen in my life. I thought beforehand that I might cry, one because of the subject matter and two because I figured others would be cry which is something that usually does me in pretty quickly. However – I didn’t and I only saw one woman get teary-eyed once. It wasn’t the type of scene that you really see and cry. No, it felt more like in Harry Potter when he describes the feeling that a Deatheater gives you – “…like I’ll never be happy again.” That’s exactly how it felt – just emptiness really. It was numbing. I don’t know how to describe in words the way it felt to stand in the gas chamber where hundreds of thousands died – to walk on the floor they walked on, to touch the walls that they touched. Mainly – you just sit and wonder how in the world that this could have possibly happen? How could the SS have done this to so many people?
It was somber to see hundreds of kilograms of women’s hair that the SS had shaved off before death and they sent them to Germany to be spun into socks for the military – for their warmth! To see all the suitcases marked with inmates’ names and addresses; suitcases with items they would never see again because the SS took what they could recycle and threw away everything else. I touched the bunk beds (3 high) that were smaller than the twin bed I grew up with and yet were used to sleep 2-3 adults. I saw the gallows where so many people were hung on display to remind prisoners of what awaited those who disobeyed; and where the camp administrator was hung after the war after being convicted of war crimes. A small victory, but it could not bring back those who had already died.
I saw more but won’t recount it here as it will likely just depress you as well. It’s hard to be reminded of what we are capable of. I saw the birthplace in Poland of composer Fredric Chopin and of Nicholas Copernicus and you are reminded of what brilliance we are capable of to understand our world through science and to describe it in detail and to create the most beautiful melodies with music. Then you see something like Auschwitz-Birkenau and are you are reminded of the other, more dark, side that we humans have within us – the ability to do monstrous and heinous things. We are an odd species. I don’t think you will find another species on Earth that is capable of exuding more love than humans, and you will definitely not find another species more prone to fear and hate.
I finished up my day with a tour of Oskar Schindler’s factory in Krakow where he saved over 1000 Jewish people from extermination. That has been converted into a Krakow Holocaust Museum. Here was hands down one of the single-most amazing museums I have been to in the world. It took you through historically the days leading up to and during the War and what happened in Krakow. Pictures and dates and items tell the story for you, but there are also numerous videos of residents of Krakow recounting the events. Before the war, the city of Krakow was home to over 25,000 Jews and today that number stands at just 200. Of those that survived, they have already died or chose to never return.
It was really one of the roughest days I had ever had and one the saddest things I have ever seen. The quote when you entered the gas chamber said it best and it was something like, “Those who forget history are bound to repeat it.” It is important to see such sights so that the world is reminded of our past. Remembering our past is the only way to prevent it from being repeated. The Holocaust was a terrible blight on the world’s history, on the history of humanity and forever changed what we know humans are capable of. However it is for this reason that we must honor those who gave their lives. Honor them by remembering them to ensure their eternal sacrifice is not in vain, but that we learn something from it.
I got on the bus at 8am to go for my guided tour of the Auschwitz – Birkenau complex. Of the many concentration camps the Germans had during WWII, and the many in Poland alone – none have the notoriety of Auschwitz. But it is often misunderstood. Auschwitz was actually 3 main camps and over 140 sub-camps. The Auschwitz camp (Auschwitz being the German name for the Polish town of Oscwiego) was a small camp that only housed men and only about 20,000 of them. The neighboring Birkenau camp (about half a kilometer away) was the biggie – holding both men and women and over 400,000 of them. This is where the SS exterminated over 1.5 million people in gas chambers and crematoria.
It was one of the hardest things I have ever seen in my life. I thought beforehand that I might cry, one because of the subject matter and two because I figured others would be cry which is something that usually does me in pretty quickly. However – I didn’t and I only saw one woman get teary-eyed once. It wasn’t the type of scene that you really see and cry. No, it felt more like in Harry Potter when he describes the feeling that a Deatheater gives you – “…like I’ll never be happy again.” That’s exactly how it felt – just emptiness really. It was numbing. I don’t know how to describe in words the way it felt to stand in the gas chamber where hundreds of thousands died – to walk on the floor they walked on, to touch the walls that they touched. Mainly – you just sit and wonder how in the world that this could have possibly happen? How could the SS have done this to so many people?
It was somber to see hundreds of kilograms of women’s hair that the SS had shaved off before death and they sent them to Germany to be spun into socks for the military – for their warmth! To see all the suitcases marked with inmates’ names and addresses; suitcases with items they would never see again because the SS took what they could recycle and threw away everything else. I touched the bunk beds (3 high) that were smaller than the twin bed I grew up with and yet were used to sleep 2-3 adults. I saw the gallows where so many people were hung on display to remind prisoners of what awaited those who disobeyed; and where the camp administrator was hung after the war after being convicted of war crimes. A small victory, but it could not bring back those who had already died.
I saw more but won’t recount it here as it will likely just depress you as well. It’s hard to be reminded of what we are capable of. I saw the birthplace in Poland of composer Fredric Chopin and of Nicholas Copernicus and you are reminded of what brilliance we are capable of to understand our world through science and to describe it in detail and to create the most beautiful melodies with music. Then you see something like Auschwitz-Birkenau and are you are reminded of the other, more dark, side that we humans have within us – the ability to do monstrous and heinous things. We are an odd species. I don’t think you will find another species on Earth that is capable of exuding more love than humans, and you will definitely not find another species more prone to fear and hate.
I finished up my day with a tour of Oskar Schindler’s factory in Krakow where he saved over 1000 Jewish people from extermination. That has been converted into a Krakow Holocaust Museum. Here was hands down one of the single-most amazing museums I have been to in the world. It took you through historically the days leading up to and during the War and what happened in Krakow. Pictures and dates and items tell the story for you, but there are also numerous videos of residents of Krakow recounting the events. Before the war, the city of Krakow was home to over 25,000 Jews and today that number stands at just 200. Of those that survived, they have already died or chose to never return.
It was really one of the roughest days I had ever had and one the saddest things I have ever seen. The quote when you entered the gas chamber said it best and it was something like, “Those who forget history are bound to repeat it.” It is important to see such sights so that the world is reminded of our past. Remembering our past is the only way to prevent it from being repeated. The Holocaust was a terrible blight on the world’s history, on the history of humanity and forever changed what we know humans are capable of. However it is for this reason that we must honor those who gave their lives. Honor them by remembering them to ensure their eternal sacrifice is not in vain, but that we learn something from it.
Monday, April 18, 2011
Reflections on Greece
As I sit in the airport for my last hour before the plane leaves Greece, I can't help reflect on Athens and the islands....
First - The whole of the country is beautiful. The richness of their history and ancient culture still permeates the streets. It is a land of mountains and mythology. The people are so very nice. They put up with me not speaking Greek and when I tried to spout off some phrase I read in my guidebook - they put up with me butchering their language!
Their metro subway system rivals that of London and Rome for cleanliness and efficiency. However I have to give Athens the win in sheer speed. I nearly fell over about three times and twice I did step on someone's foot when the train takes off - it's got some of what my dad would call "get up".
And Greece knows how to do food - that's for sure. Especially breads and pastries. It seems like these little things called "pies" are all the rage - ham and cheese, ham, cheese, spinach, spinach and cheese - you get the point. They are these big, flaky biscuit like things that are filled with hot yummy food inside. They're great for a snack and they're fantastic for a quick breakfast.
The one thing I can say Greece really shouldn't be doing anymore - selling ladies hair dye. Whether its the outrageous twenty-somethings in their blue or pink or orange hair or maybe it's the girls aged 12 to 62 with bleach blonde and roots that makes the prospect of banning hair dye in Greece so appealing. Stick to the pastries ladies - that you're great at. Picking appropriate hair colors other than what God gave you - that you suck at.
I will miss the stunning views of chapels and temples shadowing down on the city, but I will not miss the bleach-blonde grandmas trying a little too hard. I will miss seeing the mountains' tips just disappear into the cloudy sky, but I will not miss the Seattle-like rain every day. I will miss being able to get anywhere in city with amazing, cheap, efficient and fast public transport, but I will not miss the tons of couples that got PG-13 in the metro and buses.
Goodbye Sweet Greece!
Poland - soon we will meet.
First - The whole of the country is beautiful. The richness of their history and ancient culture still permeates the streets. It is a land of mountains and mythology. The people are so very nice. They put up with me not speaking Greek and when I tried to spout off some phrase I read in my guidebook - they put up with me butchering their language!
Their metro subway system rivals that of London and Rome for cleanliness and efficiency. However I have to give Athens the win in sheer speed. I nearly fell over about three times and twice I did step on someone's foot when the train takes off - it's got some of what my dad would call "get up".
And Greece knows how to do food - that's for sure. Especially breads and pastries. It seems like these little things called "pies" are all the rage - ham and cheese, ham, cheese, spinach, spinach and cheese - you get the point. They are these big, flaky biscuit like things that are filled with hot yummy food inside. They're great for a snack and they're fantastic for a quick breakfast.
The one thing I can say Greece really shouldn't be doing anymore - selling ladies hair dye. Whether its the outrageous twenty-somethings in their blue or pink or orange hair or maybe it's the girls aged 12 to 62 with bleach blonde and roots that makes the prospect of banning hair dye in Greece so appealing. Stick to the pastries ladies - that you're great at. Picking appropriate hair colors other than what God gave you - that you suck at.
I will miss the stunning views of chapels and temples shadowing down on the city, but I will not miss the bleach-blonde grandmas trying a little too hard. I will miss seeing the mountains' tips just disappear into the cloudy sky, but I will not miss the Seattle-like rain every day. I will miss being able to get anywhere in city with amazing, cheap, efficient and fast public transport, but I will not miss the tons of couples that got PG-13 in the metro and buses.
Goodbye Sweet Greece!
Poland - soon we will meet.
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